Fez's Palais AMANI: A Critical Eye on its Historic Charm
In the bustling city of Fez, Morocco, Palais AMANI quietly asserts itself as a noteworthy accommodation option. With a blend of traditional Moroccan charm and contemporary comfort, this hotel offers an intriguing experience for travellers seeking authenticity and comfort. Join us as we take a closer look at Palais Amani Fez, exploring its distinctive features, amenities, and overall ambiance to provide a nuanced understanding of what it has to offer.
As part of a three hotel vacation, we stayed first at L’Hotel Marrakech before coming to Fez by train, then we headed back to Marrakech to stay at The Oberoi Marrakech. We knew we wanted to come back to Morocco at some point, having had a great stay in Marrakech before (Royal Mansour, and Kasbah Tamadot in the Atlas Mountains), so when I saw a review in the Sunday Times travel section for Palais Amani in Fez, this seemed a good opportunity to revisit the country and to see somewhere different other than Marrakech too.
“Fez's magical medina is Morocco's oldest and an easier ride than busy, sometimes hassle-prone Marrakesh. Explore it from this 21-room hotel with a bar, library and an underground hammam lit only by candlelight. Up on the roof terrace, the chef Houssam Laasiri - who says to understand a country's culture you need to eat it - runs the Fez Cooking School, offering four-hour sessions that include ingredient shopping in the souk. The garden is full of citrus trees while stunning rooms feature decorative floor tiles, stained glass and natty rugs.”
Read on to find out whether I found this description accurate.
The view over the central courtyard at Palais AMANI Fez
In this review of the Palais AMANI I’ll detail our experience of the location, local activities, and of course, the accommodation and facilities at the hotel itself. Read below to find out everything you need to know before your next trip to Fez.
The Grand Suite bedroom area, with two separate his ‘n’ his dressing rooms behind
The Grand Suite Palais AMANI bedroom area - with absolutely stunning stained glass windows
Fast Facts for Palais AMANI in Fez, Morocco:
Address - 12 Derb El Miter, Oued Zhoune,30000 Fez
Website - https://www.palaisamani.com/
TripAdvisor ranking - #15 of 177 hotels in Fez (top five star hotel)
Contact - contact@palaisamani.com
Instagram - @palaisamani
Nearest airport - Fez Sais Airport (FEZ) - 21 km or 13 miles (about a 35 min drive, traffic dependent). We are arriving and leaving by train, about a 15/20 min drive away
Opened - 2010
Number of rooms / suites - 21 rooms (Classic & Luxury) and suites (Junior, Senior & our Grand Suite)
Number of floors - 3 (plus basement hammam)
Bars - 1
Restaurants - 1 (Eden at Palais Amani)
Wellbeing - Les Bains Amani - Traditional Hamman & Massage, Yoga (not available when there), & Hiking
Visited - April 2024
The stunning (and HUGE) Grande Suite bathroom at Palais AMANI
Private rooftop suite terrace - Palais AMANI Fez
Hotel Accommodation: Historic charm
There are only 21 rooms and suites here, and I think we had the best suite by far. There are the Misriah apartments which can combine both a suite & junior suite together but the best features of our Grand Suite was the size and space (read all about it below) and also the outlook on the first floor with a full view of the courtyard.
“The door to a world that will restore, amaze and enrich you…………..
Palais Amani is a family-run, 21-room property, housed in the former home of one of Fez’s most prominent families. We pride ourselves on being the local choice: we work exclusively with local staff, ingredients and products so that we can give back to the community of Fez.”
Facilities & Service at Palais AMANI
There’s an on site restaurant and bar, a small shop selling some local handicrafts next to reception, the basement hammam, a massage room, the Fez Cooking School on the rooftop, and the rooftop area itself with a sun deck and terrace for Fez views and the sunsets.
I’ve broken down the key facilities and services and shared my opinion on them below:
Our Grand Suite
There’s nothing else for it, but to say that this was exceptional. It was vast, floor space wise and also ceiling height, with an unenviable outlook through massive coloured stained glass windows across the whole property, rooftop and courtyard. At the entrance, there was a decent sized living and work space with a TV, and a guest WC. The floors throughout were tiled in a traditional style, a wonderful mix of black, white, and colour too. From the relaxation space (and it was work space for me too for a while, with a great desk overlooking the courtyard) there was a small step down into one of what must be one of the biggest hotel bedrooms we’ve ever had.
There was a massive centrally placed bed, refreshment centre with tea/coffee facilities (great mini-fridge with complimentary waters and soft drinks, and alcohol available at cost) two lounging areas either side of the massive full height windows, and two separate dressing areas behind, in this his case his and his. These were walk-in spaces with lots of storage and hanging space, really good to be able to keep all our luggage stored away to leave the massive bedroom space uncluttered.
Levels of Comfort
Like L’Hotel Marrakech too, the bed (though super large) was quite firm and not what we’re used to; but both were extremely comfortable and ‘Mrs’ TPT thinks his back feels all the better for having a firmer mattress. The suite was really clean, and serviced mainly in the morning with a turndown refresh in the evening (and some nice chocolates left). The mini bar was replenished daily, and on arrival there was a selection of sweet pastry treats in a glass dome, and fruit, nuts, and dates in another.
Bathroom
Definitely a wow bathroom with another huge stained glass window (all had wooden shutters to close over at night for privacy and keeping the light out, as well as heavy drapes too) and what must be one of the biggest soaking tubs I’ve had in any bathroom. I like Duravit sanitaryware (we have a lot at home) and this wasn’t just a two-person tub only (not that we road tested more). There was a dressing table and then a central console with a large trough-style sink (I always like a double his and his sink) but this was a great stylish alternative with two sets of taps. Behind a false wall you’d find another WC and a large shower cubicle, all with Palais Amani natural soaps, shampoo, conditioner and body lotions.
Breakfast
This was served in the courtyard restaurant, and included for all stays. There was a selection of mixed fruit with natural yoghurt, teas or coffees, orange juice, and some sort of ‘soup’ each day - one was a tapioca style, another a barley - these weren’t our favourites it has to be said. There was also a selection of local breads, and a huge tray of accompaniments like honey, jams, butter, olives, cheese oils etc.
Restaurant & Bars
The rooftop is home to the Fez Cooking School (and this looked a great set up and something to do when there, if it’s of interest) but the ‘gastronomic’ fine-dining restaurant in the courtyard felt a bit disappointing to be honest. Service was good, but like I mention later the courtyard and the rooftop both felt a bit unloved and needed a bit of visionary attention to bring this up to the exceptional standard that a building and hotel could easily achieve, and deserves. I compare this property’s potential to some other exceptional buildings we’ve stayed in (like the Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur or the Lake Palace in Udaipur, both India) where the attention to detail was amazing. These Indian properties are on a completely different scale, but were exemplary inspirational comparatives. Maybe Fez just isn’t quite ready for this level of sophistication, but the Palais Amani has the potential.
Spa & Wellness
More on this later, but there was Les Bain Amani in the basement area of one corner of the courtyard, and a separate couple’s massage room too; hiking available and I think there would normally have been yoga (and I did see this showcased before) but didn’t seem available during our stay, despite getting an email from the hotel asking me if I wanted to book for our stay.
Design & Architecture
This historic house in the Fez Medina area was originally the home of one of Fez’s more prominent families, but had been left to deteriorate to a ruin. A couple (Jemima Mann-Baha and Abdel Ali Baha) bought the dilapidated property and spent four years restoring this. So many original features were retained and restored, and it did have a palatial feel with the dramatic coloured tiles throughout and stained glass windows.
What about the Fez location?
Really good - it was just on the very outskirts of the Medina, so you had the best of both worlds - easy access to the historic Medina, but yet easy to get to from the railway station or airport by car, and easy to get to the other areas - the Mediaeval part of Fez or the more modern city.
Some of the top activities I’d recommend doing in Fez are:
Les Bains Amani
This was a good hammam experience, but I wouldn’t describe it as luxury (having a similar experience at The Four Seasons at Ten Trinity London, that was luxury with a capital L!).
There were various options here, including extra treatments, and we opted for the Amani Unwind package (90 minutes, 850 MAD - about £70, $85, or EURO 80) which included both the Traditional Hammam service followed by a 45 minute relaxing massage. It felt a bit rushed and a bit of attention to detail lacking (seeing the ‘back of house’ area while we were waiting on rapidly produced random plastic seats) and looking into a display case which would have been perfect to showcase some luxury products for sale, but instead was the obvious storage cupboard for all of the therapists personal belongings). Massage was then on the level above, in a dedicated couple’s massage suite. The massage was good, just the right pressure, and the therapists catered for our difference of my liking a firm pressure, but ‘Mrs’ TPT always wimped out for something softer.
Panoramic City Tour
I’d seen this recommended on another travel blog, and I would certainly confirm the benefit of doing this. We had a great guide/driver in Mohammed, in a really nice new air-conditioned car and he took us to various vantage points around the city, to the Royal Palace (just to look at the 7 gilt/bronze doors, you couldn’t enter the Palace), before going onto a ceramics factory (not too much pressure to buy) and finally the Tanneries. There was also an option to visit a garden, but having already spent a couple of hours, we had felt this was enough and would head back to the hotel. I’d say 2-3 hours/half-day tours are more than sufficient here.
The Tanneries
We’d had a very disappointing visit to the Tanneries in Marrakech, thinking there would be panoramic views from the talked about terraces overlooking. Maybe we were just unlucky with the terrace that we were ushered up to, but it was just a window overlooking, then the obvious pressure to either buy some leather goods or give a tip. When we had walked the Medina the day before, we were constantly hassled to be taken to the tanneries, and regardless of where we wanted to go, the usual Moroccan hassle of being told a road or street is closed, you can’t get through, or wherever we want to go, we’re going the wrong way, GPS doesn’t work etc.etc.
Where Mohammed took us to in Fez was completely different, he dropped us off in front of the main tannery and he spoke to a guide to take us up and show us the view, and also to explain the process. Having not really seen loads of tourists when we’d walked the Medina the day before, there were lots at the tannery viewing area and indeed I’d say this was a panoramic view. Our guide was good at explaining the process and giving us lots of time to take photographs and videos, and (of course) there were only a few comments, but clear, about giving a tip. On our way back down, a different way which takes you through all the retail parts selling bags, jackets, and a whole array of leather goods, we just said we weren’t interested in buying anything, and he seemed quite happy with the 20 dirhams we gave as a tip, and he took us back to find Mohammed our driver/guide.
Walk the Medina
It’s definitely worth doing, and we saw all the different areas selling leather goods, baskets, toiletries and herbal medicines, glassware, clothing, perfumes, and also fruit,veg and meat areas. We did get an extreme amount of hassle though, which is unfortunate, and if we were asked one more time (or being told we were going the wrong way) for the tanneries, someone would have got a very sharp response! The Palais Amani is perfectly situated for walking here, albeit the Medina is big and uphill a lot of the time to get to the Blue/Green gate (different colour each side, blue representing the colour of Fez, and green that of Islam).
Food and Drink in Fez
With being there for three nights, we had thought we would have dinner in the hotel once (and we did on the first night, and accidentally again the night after too - read on as to why) and then eat out elsewhere on the other two. I searched, as I would usually do, TripAdvisor for very highly rated local restaurants, ideally something a bit different and special, and good for accommodating my dietary requirement, but there was nothing necessarily coming up that would just be an easy walk from the hotel. I therefore noticed in the hotel information book that there was a list of recommended restaurants in both the local Medina (old town) as well in the new town further away. One of these was Dar Roumana, and we actually walked there one lunchtime (uphill) only to find that they were only open for dinner! Another was called L’Italien, and we both really liked the idea of having a change of food, so we phoned reception to try and book.
The first time, they said they would look into it and phone back. When reception did phone back, to say there wasn’t one, ‘Mrs’ TPT explained that time that it was in the book, so the staff member said he would ask again and phone back. No one did phone, so after our hammam experience (more on this later) we went down to reception to ask. They tried to phone the restaurant that time (a more on the ball staff member) but with no answer they apparently wrote directions on a slip of paper, which they gave to a taxi driver which they helped us find - eventually! It took a bit of time, and an odd concept for us, that the taxi would be stopped, to find out whether we could join on the trip. It took a few attempts, but eventually we joined a single lady, and after dropping her off the driver took us further on, allegedly to the restaurant. To cut a long story short, it was clear that he had no idea where it was, couldn’t follow the address given or it wasn’t right (very confusing, as he said the directions were for a restaurant called La Fontaine yet the hotel book called it L’Italien, unless that was just a generic description). We were driven around for about 90 minutes, him stopping constantly for directions, before the taxi itself was stopped by the Police, presumably because he was using his phone whilst driving. Being stopped by the Police was the final straw and we just asked to be taken back to the hotel after a futile drive, and even then he tried to palm us off into another taxi as he was meant to have been finished by this point.
We therefore had dinner again in the hotel restaurant, but with the menu being exactly the same (and not hugely appealing with the only vegetarian option being a vegetable tagine, which I’d had the night before), we just asked if we could have omelettes.
Some of the restaurants and cafes we encountered over the course of our stay in Fez, Morocco were:
Eden at Palais AMANI
This was a fixed three course menu (with a few options for each course) or, as we found out, you didn’t necessarily need to have all three courses, but there was no other options. Food was ok, I just wouldn’t have described it as gastronomic nor the ambience of the restaurant fine-dining. We also came back to the hotel after a morning tour, and for ease we opted to have lunch there too. We were both really disappointed to be presented with the exact same dinner menu, but luckily we asked if there wasn’t anything else available (I couldn’t have stomached yet another vegetable tagine) and then we were given a ‘light’ menu with some better options.
The Ruined Garden
The Ruined Garden was open for both lunch and dinner, and we eventually got there despite lots of locals telling us we were going the wrong way, or that it wasn’t open. It’s an interesting place, indeed a (formerly) ruined garden that has been transformed into a nice restaurant serving local Moroccan food.
The Ruined Garden
Restaurant Fez Café
This wasn’t one we went to, but (bizarrely) as we were sitting having a coffee one morning on a street side café, ‘Mrs’ TPT met someone he used to work with, and they were actually staying in Fez for a week and gave a good recommendation for Restaurant Fez Café.
Highlights of our stay
There were so many highlights of the stay at the but here are just a few of the key points, which I hope you find a useful summary.
Location - was in the Medina, but just on the periphery so easily accessible by car then only a brief walk to the hotel itself, yet walk the other way and you’re in the heart of the Medina in only a couple of minutes.
Our Grand Suite - amazing space, the tiles & stained glass were phenomenal.
A lot of the rooms and suites were internal facing only, so it was incredible having three massive double windows on the first floor overlooking the central courtyard, as well as light through stained glass high up on the outer wall too.
Mohammed, our driver and guide for a morning panoramic city tour was great, and he also took us back to the train station. A real asset for the hotel - he was so engaging and knowledgeable about the history of Fez.
Areas for improvement
Wherever we stay, I do always like to look at the positives on any property we stay in, and airlines we fly with etc. but sometimes you can’t help but notice things that (for me, but I realise this is always personal) might have made for a better stay.
A day or two before we arrived, I received an email asking about transfers, booking dinner and activities, and whether I wanted to reserve a place for an early morning yoga class. I went straight back to book dinner and yoga, dinner was confirmed but they came back to advise that yoga was currently unavailable. Disappointing to proffer something that wasn’t in fact possible. It’s a recurring theme but again an example of a bit of attention to detail lacking.
Food - the dinner menu remained the same throughout our stay, and while we thought there was both a fixed three-course dinner menu and a la carte, it turned out the a la carte option was just to pick from the standard dinner menu, but not necessarily have all three courses.
Update the website copyright to 2024 - having this fixed as 2020 just exacerbated the issue of a lack of attention to detail, and things just all feeling a bit unloved.
I’m not sure where the two bars are (as per website) - unless they’re counting the restaurant as another bar too?
The restaurant was decent, but I’d not describe it either as gastronomic nor fine-dining. Work is needed on the ambience there, and I’d say newer furniture. Every table seemed to need paper stacked up under the legs so that they didn’t wobble, and a lot of the seat cushions were very, very stained. Odd as the rest of the hotel was exceptionally clean.
The rooftop - we had a great evening of cocktails and tapas at sunset, but a lot of space felt unloved and again in need of some TLC/attention to detail/more sophistication. There were a lot of broken pots and old broken parasol bases etc. - just felt as if Management wasn’t seeing this sort of thing and as an opportunity to make this space (and the same in the courtyard) magical. L’Hotel Marrakech did an amazing job of changing the courtyard ambience in the evening with candles throughout, and El Fenn had an exceptional rooftop dining area and bar. More foliage needed.
While we had a good hammam experience, I wouldn’t necessarily say this was luxurious. Our experience felt a bit rushed (we were on time, but had to wait 10-15 minutes while previous guests finished) and again there just seemed to be a lack of polish/sophistication and just needing a bit of TLC, again.
The hanging sign at the entrance to the property didn’t seem commensurate with understated elegance - I can see why they would want to advertise the entrance, but in other exceptional properties where we’ve stayed (like L’Hotel Marrakech) with its minimal signage, I usually find that in these instances ‘less is more’.
Would I stay here again?
I would highly recommend Palais AMANI, the above points aren’t so much negatives, but more missed opportunities to make this place exceptionally special. I’d be aware that a lot of rooms are internal facing (ours was too, but completely different having windows in the courtyard on the upper level rather than into a corridor or the ground floor). There was also an interesting room on the rooftop with its own (small) seating terrace in front, up a few stairs. Here was an example of where they had made the effort to present this in the best way, with small pots on the stairs.
Shopping was interesting here in Fez, but we did get a lot of hassle too which is unfortunate
My final thoughts on The Palais AMANI
I do love Morocco, and as much as we love Marrakech, it felt important to be seeing different areas of the country too. I wasn’t disappointed by Fez, as I’m so glad we have been and seen, but probably not somewhere I’d be rushing back to. With all the amazing hotels that Marrakech has to offer, we will definitely be back there, and I’m interested now in Casablanca for two main reasons. One, that Royal Mansour (where we stayed before in Marrakech) have now opened a second property there (I think they’ve just refurbished what was the previous Le Royal Mansour Méridien) but it looks incredible and also has an amazing spa. Two, when in Rabat train station, on the way to Fez, I spotted what looked an interesting twin-level train, Al Boraq - much more modem and higher speed than was available Marrakech to Fez, the Al Boraq connects Tangiers to Casablanca in just two hours.
Have you stayed at Palais AMANI before or visited Fez? I’d love to hear your own thoughts and opinions on it as well as your impression of Fez and Morocco as a holiday destination.
Comment below to share your thoughts and opinions.
Let me know which hotel I should review next!
